How to Spot Fake Retro Games (and Why It Matters)
Here’s what you should know about identifying genuine vs fake retro games.
A couple of weeks ago, I almost got scammed on Amazon.
I was looking to source inventory for Coin Punch Games, and I’d found a seller who was offering up a copy of the rare, cult classic SNES title EarthBound for only $50 plus shipping.
Now, I should have known right away from the price alone that it wouldn’t be the genuine article. (Actual copies of EarthBound go for thousands.)
But I figured maybe the seller didn’t know what they were sitting on and just wanted a quick buck, so with a mix of hesitation and glee, I hit “buy”.
Almost instantly, I had second thoughts. What if I’d bought a counterfeit copy? What if it’s not real?
I resolved that as soon as the game arrived, I’d examine it carefully to determine whether it’s an original or a reproduction.
Sure enough, as soon as the game arrived, there were ample signs that it was a repro, not the original. First and foremost, the box was way too small to be a genuine SNES game box. Secondly, the box was in great condition. Almost mint. Which is suspicious for what’s supposed to be a 31-year-old game.
And finally, when I opened up the box, I found that inside was a cartridge that was much smaller and lighter than the original SNES cartridges. Plus, even though the game was advertised as complete-in-box, it lacked the manual and scratch ‘n’ sniff stickers that were issued with the original EarthBound back in 1994. The cartridge was also in pristine condition, with no signs of wear.
In sum, I’d been taken by a counterfeiter. (Happens to the best of us.)
But thanks to my eye for detail, I was able to spot this fake before it entered my inventory. And with a little help from ChatGPT, I was able to construct a compelling case for a refund, and my money was returned to me. I sent the game back and resolved that from now on, if I saw a deal that was too good to be true, I’d pass on it.
Point being: It can take an experienced eye to spot counterfeit games. I don’t want any of you good people to be swindled out of your hard-earned money by counterfeiters, so today on the Coin Punch Games blog, we’re going over what counterfeit games look like, why it matters that they’re counterfeit, and what you can do to avoid buying counterfeit games.
Why Reproductions and Counterfeit Retro Games Suck
Reproductions and counterfeits of retro games can be fun to play, especially if you’re on a budget. But most of the time, they’re more trouble than they’re worth.
First problem: A lot of games, both new and old, have anti-piracy software built in. EarthBound is a prime example, as it has multiple anti-piracy and anti-cheat measures. For starters, if you play a counterfeit copy of EarthBound, you’ll quickly find that the game will check your cartridge’s save file to see if it has less than 8KB of SRAM (counterfeits have more). If more than 8KB of SRAM are detected, the game will show an anti-piracy message and freeze.
It’s possible to hack your way through this anti-piracy screen, but if you do, you’ll find that the game will randomly spawn many, many more enemies to make the game harder and less fun. You’ll also find that the game will freeze when you enter certain areas. Even if you do somehow manage to make it through to the final boss fight on a counterfeit copy of EarthBound, you’ll soon find that the game will freeze and force a reset. Once that happens, the game will delete your entire save file and force you to start over from the beginning.
Other reproductions and counterfeits are often poorly made, meaning even if the game functions correctly, it may randomly crash, or corrupt your save file. Others still are so poorly made that playing them will wreck your console.
To their credit, Nintendo and other manufacturers are doing everything they can to fight counterfeits. But they don’t have the resources to screen every Amazon or eBay listing, which means it’s up to us individuals to make sure we’re buying the real deal and not a cheap knock-off.
How to Spot a Counterfeit Retro Game from the Outside
Counterfeit retro games can often be difficult to tell apart from genuine games, especially when the fakes are well-made. (Counterfeiters are always getting better at mimicking the real thing.) But there’s always a tell.
First, you’ll want to make sure you check the label. Label print quality is often a dead giveaway of a fake. Counterfeit retro game labels often have blurry text, off-centre logos, pixelated images, or wrong fonts. Official game labels are sharp, glossy, and professionally aligned, so anything that looks “off” could be a tell that it’s a fake.
Next, look for misspelled text or odd branding. Typos, outdated ESRB logos, missing trademarks, or misnamed publishers are red flags.
You’ll also want to check the screws and shells of the game. Official cartridges typically use proprietary screws, like the Gamebit. Counterfeits are typically held together with Phillips or flathead screws. As for the shell, an off-colour hue or strange plastic texture could indicate a fake.
Before you boot up the game, check it for its format. If it’s advertised as a US-licensed game, for instance, then it shouldn’t say “PAL” or display PAL format. Region mismatches are often indicators that the game is a reproduction.
Once you boot up the game, watch for any glitches, crashes, or altered game content. If the game is supposed to have a battery save function but won’t save your progress, it could be a sign that it’s a reproduction. (Either that, or the battery is dead.)
The box and manual can also be tells that a game is a counterfeit. Fake boxes often look too new, are printed on cheap cardstock, or have the wrong colours. As for the manual, if it’s saddle-stitched with consistent layout and font choices, it’s likely authentic.
Advanced Tip: Open the Game Up
If you have the right skills and tools, you can verify for certain whether the game is an original or a reproduction by examining its insides. A real game cartridge will have official branding on the printed circuit board. It will say “Nintendo” or “SEGA” on the board. In contrast, fake cartridges typically use green printed circuit boards with messy soldering, missing chip labels, or modern components like flash memory.
Furthermore, you’ll want to check for the serial or board code while you have the cartridge open. Authentic games have a code on the circuit board that matches the game title and region; fake games will often lack this code or have an incorrect one listed.
And finally:
If it Sounds Too Good to be True…
…then it probably is. If the seller is advertising the game for a price well below its market value, you’re likely looking at a reproduction – especially if it’s a sought-after title like EarthBound or Pokémon Emerald.
You’ll also want to look at the source of the game. If the seller has little history, or the item listing is missing photos, or if the description is vague, it’s likely a fake.
Counterfeit and reproduction games may be fun to play, but they’re often riddled with errors, packed with anti-piracy measures, and lack any meaningful resale value. That’s why it’s important for retro game collectors, enthusiasts, and players to be able to tell the difference between a genuine retro game and a reproduction.
Have you ever been swindled by someone selling a reproduction as an original? How did you find out it was a repro?